Wheel hop OMFG!!!

[boredmonkey]

well today i went to my first event, car was completly stock except for exhaust,striped, and welded diff (which surprizingly works wonders) but the moment just after initiation and turning into a corner i get INSANE amount of wheel hop(like to the point i thought i was going to break my rear end or anything drivetrain wise) but after turning in and begin countersteer is where it levels out the rear and it doesnt hop at all and is really smooth throughout the drift untill yet again i beging Turning in. my thinking is that i probly need a sway bar and/or panhard bar.but today was officaly the funnest day of my life.i hope some1 got a vid of this so u guys can see wut im talking about

[David Adams]

PANHARDBARISSOMETHINGEVERYMUSTANGNEEDSBECAUSEALLMU STANGSMUSTHAVEAPANHARDBAROMGOMGOMGOMGOMGGETAPANHAR DBARITSOLVESALLPROBLEMSTHATALLMUSTANGSHAVEEVERITWI LLEVENSOLVEGLOBALWARMINGANDPOVERTYTHEPANHARDBARIST HEONLYWAYTOGETAHEADINLIVE

-Dave

[suo]

WTF? never got no wheel hop... maybe you run on some WIIIIIIIDE wheels? I can't seem to understand wtf's wrong with your stang...

[boredmonkey]

indeed i am running wide wheels there very similar to the one here
http://videos.streetfire.net/video/8...-OUT_34961.htm
and i never got to use my old stock rims to compare how it would be, i was afraid that it would have devastating affects on my car seeing how some 14s made the car shake so freakin violent


to david: thattookmesolongtoreadbutithinkilbegettinonepretty soonwoot...!

[Geoff Chandler]

Originally Posted by David Adams

PANHARDBARISSOMETHINGEVERYMUSTANGNEEDSBECAUSEALLMU STANGSMUSTHAVEAPANHARDBAROMGOMGOMGOMGOMGGETAPANHAR DBARITSOLVESALLPROBLEMSTHATALLMUSTANGSHAVEEVERITWI LLEVENSOLVEGLOBALWARMINGANDPOVERTYTHEPANHARDBARIST HEONLYWAYTOGETAHEADINLIVE

-Dave

Actually a panhard will not solve wheel hop. That would be caused by a combination of ride height, spring rate, and shock damping. The heavier your tire is, the more pronounced it can be. You could try simply increasing the amount of air you run in your rear tires.

[boredmonkey]

question. how would a none panhardbar set up be like would it make good for aggresive switch backs but controlable with a ridged chassi? and i think im going to start with chassi stiffening before i do suspension like cage, subframes, and braces i mean the car feels like its litterally about to get torn apart and i hope that those will elemenate that feeling.

[Geoff Chandler]

Originally Posted by boredmonkey

question. how would a none panhardbar set up be like would it make good for aggresive switch backs but controlable with a ridged chassi? and i think im going to start with chassi stiffening before i do suspension like cage, subframes, and braces i mean the car feels like its litterally about to get torn apart and i hope that those will elemenate that feeling.

I think you will find that a good set of subframe connectors will fix that "get torn apart" feeling. I had a full cage before I had subframes, and I think the subframes did as much or more then the cage. I use the full length MM units.

You need a panhard before you are going to be able to hit aggressive switchbacks.

Right now I am acutally cleaning off the floor in my car and plan to spend some time next weekend welding up all the cracks and seams to see if I can make the car even stiffer. These Mustangs are like wet noodles.

[koppa]

Originally Posted by boredmonkey

question. how would a none panhardbar set up be like would it make good for aggresive switch backs but controlable with a ridged chassi? and i think im going to start with chassi stiffening before i do suspension like cage, subframes, and braces i mean the car feels like its litterally about to get torn apart and i hope that those will elemenate that feeling.

Here's a non panhard setup in action

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=05fs_x2N9nU

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=abzBONVTGC

[David Adams]

Mmmmm, Fox Body

[boredmonkey]

thats sick

[Geoff Chandler]

Originally Posted by koppa

Here's a non panhard setup in action

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=05fs_x2N9nU

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=abzBONVTGC

Pay attention at 0:36. See how the car needs to get settled again before he can transition from drifting right to drifting left. With a panhard you no longer need to let the car take that settle, and can transition instantly from one to the other. Also look at 1:15 and notice how the car does a "wiggle" back and forth, that's the rearend moving and steering the car. It forces the driver to compensate with the wheel.

Just to drive home my point:



Pay attention to the transition at 0:55, you are not going to pull that off without a panhard, you simply don't have enough time on the track.

[koppa]

Originally Posted by Geoff Chandler

Pay attention at 0:36. See how the car needs to get settled again before he can transition from drifting right to drifting left. With a panhard you no longer need to let the car take that settle, and can transition instantly from one to the other. Also look at 1:15 and notice how the car does a "wiggle" back and forth, that's the rearend moving and steering the car. It forces the driver to compensate with the wheel.



Pay attention to the transition at 0:55, you are not going to pull that off without a panhard, you simply don't have enough time on the track.

I'm sure it's alot better with panhard, that's why i will have one on my car before it goes to track. My point was that you can drift with out it if your suspension and control arm bushings are in good shape(and non rubber)

[seanland]

Originally Posted by Geoff Chandler

I think you will find that a good set of subframe connectors will fix that "get torn apart" feeling. I had a full cage before I had subframes, and I think the subframes did as much or more then the cage. I use the full length MM units.

You need a panhard before you are going to be able to hit aggressive switchbacks.

Right now I am acutally cleaning off the floor in my car and plan to spend some time next weekend welding up all the cracks and seams to see if I can make the car even stiffer. These Mustangs are like wet noodles.

so do you run a ph bar as a 3 link setup? add the torque arm and remove the upper uca's to lower the "roll center" i believe its called? or do you not run the torque armand still have the uppers? now that i think for A SECond it seems that staying with the uca's would be the way to go to get the rear end initiated in the drift, but the ph bar gets rid of the rear end wiggle makeing it much more controlable and solid feeling?

as for wheel hop i had 18x10's w/ 275's (not even truely wide enough) and wheel hop was a mother farger like redankulous i couldn't even stay on first (and its a 3.8l) with out the rear end feeling like it was getting blown up, i switched to 17x9's and the hop has reduced drAstically, also being a fox your uca bushings could totaly be worn out.

[Geoff Chandler]

Wheel hop is going to depend on tire compound, spring rate, shock dampening, and ride height. I wish there was a simple solution, but it really is a combination of elements.

As for the panhard, I was running it with the upper links in place. I never made the conversion to a torque arm, but there isn't any reason a torque arm would not work.

[seanland]

Originally Posted by Geoff Chandler

Wheel hop is going to depend on tire compound, spring rate, shock dampening, and ride height. I wish there was a simple solution, but it really is a combination of elements.

As for the panhard, I was running it with the upper links in place. I never made the conversion to a torque arm, but there isn't any reason a torque arm would not work.

I've heard that runing the ph bar with the the 4 link will reak havioc on the uca's i don't see why though... i'm thinking IRS is the way to go. though. obviously you do too.